This relay is located under the instrument panel on the passenger side of the steering column. In 2wd I spin at the rear wheels and don't move. The problem is not just the light. The 4- and 6-cyl housings can be distinguised by the number and style of reinforcing ribs present. Yes I didn't figure it would be too pretty, I remember the issues you had with it a couple seasons ago. They're a little more effort to work with but not overly complicated. This is one reason why I chose to use the open front windows for the forward support bar as there is no way for me alone to slide a support bar under the shell in front until it is lifted.
Put the tranny in neutral, transfer case in 2H, e-brake off if is the rear axle you are testing and put a chalk mark on the driveshaft and on the tire. While it shares internals with the V6 diff, the gears are unique to the High Pinion due to the reverse cut, which puts the gears on the drive side of the teeth in the front axle. I'm pretty sure another event is that you need continuity with a 4x4 switch at the J lever on the center console. Should I try testing for continuity on that? In this case, using the non-symmetrical tooth geometry gives a gear that is 15% stronger in the forward direction and 15% weaker in the reverse direction. The diagram shows a connector with 10 positions and 9 of them occupied. The T-Case operates off of the stock switch Yes I was referring to the switch on the T-case that sends the command forward to operate the axle actuator.
If you don't feel like tracing this, simply put the white plug back into the actuator and your dash indicator will work fine. Let me know and I'll walk you through it. I also heard passenger side kick panel? It was manufactured with various body styles: two-door pickup, three-door wagon and five-door wagon. If the differential is still installed inside an axle, then assuming you have open differentials, lift one wheel on the axle in question off the ground. This will eliminate any chance of the fork moving from the locked position.
The switches can be found behind the battery on the inside right fender, the vacuum tank is in front of the front right tire under the fender. I shift into 4wd and i'm up and through the loose gravel. Custom Search Here's various bits and pieces of technical specifications, etc. It is manufactured with diesel and petrol engines, and available with both, manual and automatic transmission styles. Check for a clean throttle plate, if it is not, clean it. A: Shell Hanger Detail B: Shell Removal Here's how I remove and store my cover top i.
Problem that still exists: The 4wd indicator light doesn't turn on. That's happening when you switch the vacuum lines so that's not the problem. I agree 100% with The Durk. This system is composed of a vacuum-activated shift fork in the front differential driver's side axle tube: when the transfer case lever is moved to the 4Hi position, vacuum is applied to the fork which in turn moves a sleeve to lock the inner stub axle shaft from the carrier to another shaft in the tube. To unlock this type of hub you need to back up a few feet on flat ground. I took it to a hill where there is loose gravel.
I use 4 cargp straps, not the ratchet type - those only have a limited take up length, but use the toggle-clamp style as shown in image A above. Idea is to shut off the fuel pump in an event of the engine stalling or in a crash. The recessed section of the sleeve should be visible when it is in the proper position. If only one was bad the light would come on in 4L or 4H which ever one has the good switch. If i can't get the new style to work in any way then I'll just redo this method.
The most common problem is damage, deterioration, or mis-routed vacuum hoses. Problem with the large manual is the wiring diagrams are bound into the book. It is the second page. . The new style has four pins i think! Once battery voltage is removed, air should pass through the filter and not the upper hose fitting.
If your truck is equipped with manual hubs, lock the hubs for this test. I am more convinced that it may be the relay or switch on the front diff. Expect now it actuality was instant as it should've been from the beginning. I'm pretty sure you have a relay problem as The Durk suggests. I was able to install the newer actuator and assumed all was well. It installed perfectly except for one small problem, the actuator connections didn't line up.
It will cause bad acceleration and idle quality. Make sure all hoses are connected and not torn, cracked, or otherwise in poor condition. I had my brother drive it in 2Hi and I saw that the front propeller shaft is not rotating. I have one of each the new style and old style front actuator kicking around and was wondering how each works when wired up. My reasoning is that if I can save a gear oil change or two, the added cost of the synthetic oil more than pays for itself.
If it is a fuel injected engine check for bad fuel injector o rings for wear, if they leak they cause fuel burning and idle problems. I have a couple of them for my cruiser and it works great to try and trouble shoot a problem. I don't know where the switch is on the front diff actuator. The 4 cyl differential internals are different than the V6 and High Pinion, so that lockers and limited slips are different. What else could I check? Just send a note to me at via pm and I will send it along. I'm not sure if a I have the relay. This spring I swapped out the front differential with one out of a 1992 blazer.