I replaced the motor, and it runs for 20 minutes and shuts off. I'll definitely buy the pvc flex line since that sounds like it's a lot easier to work with and use some 14-2 romex that I have left over from wiring my shed. A number of things may have gone wrong but most often it is due to a seal or gasket being, bad or dirty. There should be another screw that says common. For clarification this picture shows the terminals without the wires. I replaced motor, had electrician and pool guy out and still can't resolve.
See if you can find the bonding wire that should have come from the grid to your heater. This information would allow us to determine the proper replacement for you. Take the 2-speed switch out and replace it with 3 wires coming from a single switch or a timer. See how easy the pics make this. White arrow on the black box should point to 230V.
However, I have a 240 volt 4 wire circuit which can handle much more amperage. Agfa Super Silette-L test roll. The past week the water flow has been steadily decreasing, and now flow starts out at 50% of what it used to be and drops more and more as it runs. The voltage from the house is 115, and I changed the inside voltage plug on the motor to 115 from 230 as per the instructions on this page. Is the reason a short in electrical wiring, a wrong setting on pump, a breaker switch? Tighten the screw with a screwdriver. They refused to discuss anything about the wiring to the pump and wouldn't even confirm that there is no neutral wire to be installed on the pump. Igor, If the housing is still in good shape, you can replace the motor and seals.
Finish by screwing the black insulator back onto the timer. Then there really is no neutral in this diagram? Then twist all the wire together slightly and push through the conduit again, then reconnect. Do not forget to share and love our reference to help further develop our website. To achieve an increase in water flow, you will also have to replace the impeller and the diffuser and or other parts depending on the type of pump you have. Today we are delighted to announce that we have found an incredibly interesting niche to be reviewed, that is 1081 pool motor wiring diagram.
Neutral is bonded to earth at the fuse box and is used as a current return for active. From many options on the internet we are sure this picture may well be a perfect reference for you, and we sincerely we do hope you are delighted by what we present. Circuits for Two 120volt Motors Hi Timothy, Using a multi-wire 4wire circuit for two 120volt motors would depend on the type of motors that would be connected and the application. It may need to be replaced, Motor model is C48L2N134B1. Alternatively, purchase a digital timeclock mechanism shown in picture , and this will handle the job of adding the third wire from the timeclock to the pump. Attach the white 115 V wire to terminal 1 of Line 1 L1.
My wiring used to be for a 2 speed pump. Thanks InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. I'd follow them and read whatever is in your user's manual for any changes. Make sure you get the information you are looking for. String your three wires thru the conduit and metal elbow into the end of the motor.
Replaced capacitor hums, won't start. We are going to apply it for much better future reports. Hayward motor wiring diagram is among the images we discovered on the internet from reputable resources. The new pump is the same model as the old pump. Line 1 has 120v Line 2 has 120v then I have ground. Earth is used primarily as a reference to detect leakage to shut of active during faults. When I move the block to the 230vac position it runs for about 10 minutes and then shuts off.
I've tightened the screws down as hard as I can manually, however the leak is still there. These contain all of the seals and gaskets when changing the motor which is highly advised. If it does turn out to be 240V, both the white and the black wires are hot and it doesn't matter which goes to L1 or L2. The model of C48L2N134C1 you have is matched to my model, and easy to replacement by myself? Specifically Cabin 819 in Curry Village near the Awahnee Hotel which is the absolutely best place to be for Thanksgiving or Christmas. The pump is part number 7-184949-22. If you don't have access to this grid, you should at least connect the pump to a steel rod driven into the ground as you suggest. Attach the black wire 0 V to terminal 3 of Line 2 L2.
Get rid of the Nature2. The black plug is positioned so that the white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at 230V. There are 6 leads, all the same color. I guessing that the red wire may have been used for the 2 speed option on the last pump. See the motor label for configuration instructions. It was going on it's third diffuser so it was time to swap it out. For 230V you will generally have a red, a black and a green wire.
Neutral is bonded to earth at the fuse box and is used as a current return for active. When I move the pre-wired block internal from the position for 230vac to 115vac and turn on the pump it shorts the and throws my breaker. The red and black wires are both hot. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Previously, the ground wire from motor was attached to heat pump base. But you might also attach the wire to a steel pipe pounded in the ground as a precaution, since you can't be sure if the underground wire is attached to the grid. Do I need to secure the wires to a steel rod pounded into the earth? Can you provide that info? You can easily download this amazing pic to your portable, mini netbook or desktop pc.