Here are two diagrams showing you how to connect them using a relay. For reasons I am unable to fathom, some people produce and sell relay kits that have no way to mount the relay. Soon after the first use the spots locked on and wouldn't turn off. The High indicator is wired on the negative side of the low-beam filament going to ground. Make sure you put a minimum 30A fuse or circuit breaker into this wire as close to the connection with the battery or other wiring as possible.
Car equipped with Smart Alternators usually have a dedicated earthing point adjacent to the battery, this is an ideal location to use as your earthing point. When the lows are on that wire is grounded and will not trip the relay. Can anyone tell me exactly which colour wire that I need to tap into, from those two red and black wires to find the high beam and not blow a fuse at the same time. Fortunately, doing it yourself is not as complicated as it sounds. I did not tell you that you should do this - only that you could do this. Ensure a good connection by filing off any paint, rust, or grit from the earthing point. Furthermore the lugs might overheat and for 26 amp you would need fairly thick wires as well, so I would suggest rather to wire each set of spots on their own circuit with their own relay.
This is not guaranteed to be 100% correct and you should use common sense when attempting any repairs or modifications to your vehicle. Put 12V+ to one side of the relay coil and put the other side to Pin 5. Check that all connection a securely fastened, and then proceed to reconnect the factory negative terminal of your battery. In other words if you are installing a 330W light bar that has a max drain of 27. Here's the diagram I'm using. Am I able to run the wire from this third light up to the other 'lights' side of the existing double relay both sides of the relay will each take two 100 watt spotties. So read on and learn how to do this.
I have been recovering from a major op which meant I couldn't do much of anything for a long time. I'm still aprehensive about wiring up my spots and it is mainly because of the earth switching. It seems that with out lights being a bi-xenon light one light for high and low , the 3 prong connector at the light works in a way that 1 prong is ground, 1 is for general headlight power, and 1 is for toggling high and low. All seemed straight forward so have wired per diagram, hook it all up. If you don't the spotlights will stay on with the headlight switch in all positions. When you are not using a relay, the control switch needs to be able to handle the full current of the installed lights.
But you said you don't have a relay on the headlights? Always wear the appropriate safety equipment. When the lows are off, the ground for the low filament is interrupted and power flows to the hi-beam indicator. No need to test, I'm certain. Note that in the original version of this diagram, I had the labels for the right side headlights reversed - it has since been corrected thanks to a sharp-eyed reader who pointed out the mistake to me. This helps ensure that you will have a more secure and lower resistance connection that will not degrade over time.
Just leave Pin 4 attached to high-beam tap and connect Pin 6 to a 12V+ key-on source. Hi Fellas,Been a while Minimin,9 months mate and you still havent wired those lights up;;;;;; Only joking mate sorry to hear about your operation champ,hope all is going to plan for you now mate. We also suggest adding a fuse. There are many different brands out there, so look for a reputable manufacturer. If your test lamp or leads does not have a sharp point, use a needle and stick it into the first wire. The independent feature works and switch light comes on to indicate it. Nothing should be out of the ordinary here.
To put this into perspective, a 10% drop in voltage between the battery and the headlight is not uncommon - and that can cause up to a 30% drop in light output! Find a long, quiet stretch of road and adjust the height of the beams to exactly where you want them. Cheers Hi Brickpaver, nice to meet you too mate,I hard wired mine so as soon as I flash or hit high beam they come on. The switch will activate the driving lights when you turn on your vehicle's high beams. Does anyone know for sure if our 4runners headlights are negative switched? It is good practise and should not be ignored. I just wasn't sure if if was still the same principle in newer vehicles,. Take some spanners and go for a drive.
If you are installing lights over 100W it is advisable to multiply the required drain by a factor of 1. I did it this way as I didnt want to drill holes for a switch and also run additional wires simply to have a switch. If not try the other wires as well. Sometimes the connectors are inside the headlight assembly, whereby you will need to remove the dust-cap to access the high beam bulb. If in doubt consult a factory wiring diagram for your car or break out the old multi-meter and do some testing and tracing of the wires in your harness to figure out what goes where.
In the down time I used to file, polish and balance my Cooper S rods. A possible idea is to earth the wires onto the negative pole of the battery. In this case, the high beam?? I could help you more but I am not really sure how your relay and light bar are hitched up to the circuit shown. Do not connect these terminal just yet. This entire page is written from the perspective of the traditional positive-to-negative power flow in an electrical circuit. Just make sure that you use decent sized wires and a proper fuse holder for the connection of the power between the battery and the relay as well as the spot lights.